Day 5 - Asheville, NC to Roanoke, VA

243 Miles

Got the call about the bike at 10:30 a.m. They were able to weld the exhaust breaks and it was ready to go. Me too!

The dealership sent a guy to the hotel to pick me up (I'm telling you this is a company that can spell Customer Service!!) and I settled up, very reasonable for the efforts expended, and I pulled out about 11:30 a.m. Not without leaving Eric some beer funds for him and his boys for after work today. They earned it! And I hope they enjoyed it. Thanks, Guys! You make every other motorcycle dealer I've dealt with, save one, look like the pikers they are. There's a Kawasaki dealer in Missoula, MT that provided me excellent service once out there. But even they weren't as impressive as the folks at MR Motorcycle in Asheville, NC. If you're in the area, give 'em some business. They'll earn it!!

Jumped back on the BRP (Blue Ridge Parkway) off Hwy 25 about 10 blocks south of the dealership. This is a nice ride. It's a 469-mile two-lane road built across the tops of the mountains connecting the Great Smoky Mountains and Shenandoah National Parks. Lots of twists and turns, beautiful tree-laden road, tunnels, everything a biker could ask for...except the 45 mph speed limit. I had a few crotch-rockets go by me testing that theory, but, on the whole, most, including me, held it around 50-55 max. In many cases, the road contributed to that speed. I would have liked to have run the entire distance but having lost so much time being sick and with bike repairs, over the last two days, I felt I needed to put some asphalt underneath me.




Many tunnels through the mountains.
(Click on picture to enlarge)














And out again, jiggity-jig








I jumped off of the BRP to get gas in Marion, NC. When I say "jumped off" that's pretty accurate. I took Hwy 80 off the BRP. Now, this is a ride!!! Fifteen miles and drops like a rock from the mountain tops down into a valley. Many, many twists and turns, with many, many very sharp turns bringing you down to second gear and testing the brakes. It's a ride worth the taking.

Gassed up the bike and myself in Marion. Had lunch at The Siena Restaurant. Very good lunch and a lovely waitress who was as nice as she was pretty. Now...I always look, and I rarely comment, but this young lady is absolutely one of the most beautiful people I've ever seen. Sort of a Grace Kelly wholesomeness with brown instead of blond hair. And, as I said, very nice personality. Hollywood, you should check this out. You need to do something about this Lindsay Lohan and Paris Hilton thing you've got going. This would be a welcome change. Class with looks and charm? Heaven forbid in today's culture.

Took Hwy 221 out of Marion rejoining the BRP at Linville Falls exiting on Hwy 321 to Boone. From Boone took Hwy 421 to Mountain City, then Hwy 91 through Damascus to I-81 just outside Glade Spring. Again, wanting to make some time I rode the I-state. Wasn't a bad ride. Hit some rain but it wasn't very heavy and just cooled things, and me, down. All in all, a very nice ride.

Pulled into Roanoke about 6:00 p.m. and called my friend Claye who, it appears is about to changes horses. She reported she was headed up to Maryland to look at a new BMW. But, then, there was a demo, slightly different color, not quite the color gray she wanted, for $2K less, and then there was a 2006 with only 3000 miles on it for yet another $2K less...decisions, decisions. We agreed to talk tomorrow night and, perhaps, ride together on Sunday. I suspect she won't be on her old bike then. And, I also suspect the new bike will be renamed Fleeter.




Now, one more time, why are they called the Smokies?










Tomorrow: Riding to Gettysburg.

Day 4 - Murphy, NC to Asheville +

156 Miles Believe in the bell Left Murphy around 8:00 a.m. taking US 64 East. This route is a meandering country two-lane highway with a river bounding the right for many miles, yielding to national forest land. A nice ride, but....   The but is for quite some time I've been hearing "chatter" whenever I leaned the bike left or right. Many will probably recognize that for what it is, but it was new to me. In addition to the sound, the bike just didn't seem to ride as well. Pulled into Asheville about 12:30 p.m. and found a Kawasaki dealer on Hendersonville road. The dealer is Mr. Motorcycle and I can't say enough about how well I've been treated. But first...the diagnosis: scalloped tire. Evidently, if you do a lot of righting and lefting while leaning you'll create a wear pattern that creates a ridge on the side of the tire. After a while, the thing starts whining whenever you lean into it. This is what I heard. I hated it, and it was getting worse and worse. Additionally, the tire was just about at the replacement point, so...we replaced it. Unfortunately, this is the busy time of the year for all dealers, and Eric R. the serviceman I talked with said he'd work me in some way. So, I sat in the waiting room until about 2:30 p.m. They did replace the tire and I was ready to go. Oh, and Eric changed the oil for me while I was there, something I'd planned to do in another 500-600 miles anyway. I can't say enough about how cooperative the entire place was. Anyone who knows bikes knows finding a decent dealer is like finding the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. They are that rare. Unfortunately, this wasn't going to be Eric's last opportunity to help me out. Left the dealership about 3:00 and, after getting a sandwich and gassing up, I got on the Blue Ridge Parkway. After only a few minutes into the trip, I started hearing exhaust leaking. Sounded just like a blown exhaust gasket on a flathead Ford engine. It continued to get worse and, after running through a nice, cooling-down rainstorm, I stopped at the first Park Service stop about eighteen miles from Asheville. There I checked the bolt tightness on the exhaust ports but found nothing wrong. I then realized I needed to get it into a shop. After checking with the Ranger I determined Asheville was closest and, despite not wanting to try Eric's customer service skills overly much, I returned to Asheville and MR Motorcycle. After looking at the bike Eric and the mechanic found a large slit on the inside of one of the pipes up near the connecting flange. It looks like a slit you'd get in metal if you "crimped" it then worked it back and forth until it broke at the bend seam. I can't for the life of me figure out how such a slit got into the pipe. But it's there. By this time it's almost 6:00 p.m. and the shop is closing. Eric is going to attempt to weld a bead on the slit tomorrow to see if that will hold. Let's hope so. If not I'll probably be stuck here in Asheville for a couple more days waiting on the new pipes from V&H. Not good! On a good note, Eric had one of his guys take me down to I-40 where I was able to find a room. Tomorrow I'll call and get the news. Here's hoping! The bell? For the non-riders, whenever you first start riding someone will (should) give you a small "tinkle" bell to hang somewhere on your bike. Legend has it that this will bring good fortune and free you from mechanical difficulties. My bell was given to me by the instructor at my Motorcycle Safety Foundation class when I took the course to get my motorcycle license endorsement. I was fortunate enough to ace the test and he presented me with the bell. Since that time I have always had it on the bike and, as you know, it went with me to Alaska last year, and to Montana in July...all without any nagging mechanical problems attributable to "bad" luck. Well, as life would have it, the bell finally gave up the ghost shortly after I returned from Montana. I have been meaning to replace it, but haven't. And now this. Believe in the bell

Day 3 - Chattanooga to Murphy, NC

Approx. 125 Miles

Actually slept in for a change, knowing the sights wouldn't be opening until at least 9:00 a.m. Got up, had a leisurely breakfast, and rode up Lookout Mountain. Nice little ride. Once at the top you start to get a real appreciation for those who had to fight their way up it. Not this cowboy! I got worn out walking the steps back up from the Och's Memorial Observatory (the "rock" where all the pictures of the Union troops were taken).

My first observation riding up was that the Union troops may have gone, but the capitalists were still there in droves. Many, many nice houses with great views. Did manage to slip up a very steep roadway that said "No vehicles over 13' 6" long allowed." (No rider worth his salt is going to pass up a road with a sign like that.) It was steep and windy but turned into pea gravel quickly enough to turn me around. Views weren't that pretty and the housing was redneck provincial. No reason to ride pea gravel.




Went to Point Park and walked the site.

(Tennessee River from Lookout Mountain)


Note: Click on any picture to enlarge










Good field of fire. It didn't have to go too far to just fall on something.










The target: Chattanooga, TN














View looking west down the Lookout Valley










Pulled off of Lookout Mountain just as Bragg's CSA troops did, retreating south. Took Hwy 17 to Hwy 193, then Hwy 2 to Fort Oglethorpe and the Chickamauga battlefield visitor center. Nicely done center; evidently the first U.S. battlefield memorial, even before Gettysburg. Unfortunately, it was so damned hot by this time that I decided to forgo much of the battlefield, limiting myself to a visit to Snodgrass Hill.

I am a huge Ambrose Bierce fan. For any who do not know him, he is worth the reading and the study...if for no other reason than you have a sense of humor. I defy anyone to read his "Devil's Dictionary" without laughing uproariously and out loud. He is also the subject of a very bad Jane Fonda-Gregory Peck movie, 'The Old Gringo.' But all that notwithstanding, he was also one of the best American writers, the equal of Mark Twain, Stephen Crane, et al, and, unlike Crane and his contemporaries, actually saw real battle during the Civil War. He was with Hazen's Brigade at Chickamauga and witnessed the route that ensued when Longstreet's Corp. (CSA) attacked at the very place that Rosecrans mistakenly withdrew his center. This led to Rosecrans "retiring from the field" while his chief-of-staff, future president James Garfield returned to inform Gen. George Thomas (The Rock of Chickamauga) of Rosecrans's "departure."
(Bierce's remembrances of the day can be found at http://www.online-literature.com/bierce/768/. I love his shot at President Garfield's "heroism" for going to Thomas.)

Thomas' famous stand took place on Snodgrass Hill.




Doesn't look like all that much now, but it had to be a pure inferno that day.











While big fields capture the imagination, there were few of them, and most of the fighting was through pine forests.






Once you came out of the forest you were met with these guys.

(Note: a Canon-eye view of a cannon-eye view...hehe)



The Snodgrass family homestead was a field hospital for both sides.

According to the information on the site, Mr. Snodgrass lived here with his wife and nine kids. Hard to believe eleven people could live in this.



(Wonder if this was The Hag's inspiration for Working Man Blues? "It's a big job just gettin' by with nine kids and a wife, I been a-workin' man dang near all my life...")



Left the battlefield on Hwy 2 East. Managed a little ten or so mile detour down Hwy 201 (missed a turn) before realizing I was lost and, after talking with a very nice Deputy Sheriff at 201-I75, found my way back on track on 2 East to Cisco. From there I took US 411 north to US 64/74 East (again).

Hwy 2 East takes you through the Ringgold Gap and is a nice country ride. A few twists and turn and, once out of Ringgold, a pretty ride. US 411 is the same, two-lane country highway with little traffic allowing for a pretty good time. I didn't want time as much as I didn't want Interstate, so it was fine by me. Turned east on US 64/74 stopping in Murphy, NC for the evening around 5:00 p.m. Total miles from Chattanooga via I-state: 92. My route: ~ 125. My route was better.

The Ocoee River, Hwy 64/74 East





















A TVA dam on the Ocoee River, Hwy 64/74 East











A road sign on US 64/74 East just east of Ocoee Lake. We like these signs. A lot!












'Betsy-the-Kaw' now proud veteran of Chickamauga.

Day 2 - Starkville to Chattanooga, TN

355 Miles

On the road by 7:30 a.m. Hwy 82 to Alt 45 then Hwy 45 through Tupelo and Corinth and into Tennessee. Took Hwy 22 by Shiloh battlefield but didn't stop. I've visited the site previously. Hwy 22 is a great little twistie ride through Tennessee country. Took it up to Crump (some town names just don't get it, do they?), then U.S.64 East. This is a good little ride. Road turns to 4-lane through some areas, but mostly it's just a two-lane highway with little traffic (on a Tuesday morning anyway). Nice ride, even with the heat.


Nice, rolling Tennessee countryside.
(Click on picture to enlarge)















Hwy 64











A little more Hwy 64










Took I-24S east of Winchester to Chattanooga. Now, like most, and as I constantly remind, I don't like interstate. But I-24S into Chattanooga is a pretty ride with 6-degree hills and twisting canyon roads. Pretty, if 6-lane. Sort of like I-70 in Utah. The scenery is so damned pretty you don't care if it's interstate...except for the 18-wheeler riding up your tail. That'll reset you to zero.

Oh, and your head had better be on a swivel. On the 6 degree slopes, the truck run-a-way lanes are to the left so you ain't safe if you stay toward the left lanes and think they are on the right ones. This is brought especially home when you see the big wheel gouges in the soft gravel dirt of the run-a-way lane. They have been "used." And recently.




Tennessee River - Nickajack Reservoir off I-24
about 15-20 miles north of Chattanooga.




















Okay. I'm on the road and the Chinese revenge seems to have worked its way through (and I do mean through).

Tomorrow they can start taking down the signs. I'll have seen Rock City.

Day 1 - Houston to Starkville, MS

615 Miles Survived Montezuma Chan's Revenge...barely. It took 23 1/2 out of 31 hours in bed to kill the Chinese bug(s) but I did it. Report me! I did it! Sell 'em some more bonds! Now! In another thirty years, we can stop worrying about ever going to war with China. They'll own so much of our debt they won't have to declare war...they'll just foreclose. On the road finally Monday morning at 7:30 a.m. Straight interstate...and ugly (as almost all interstate can be). Needed to make up some time anyway. Happy to report the earth's magnetic poles have reversed and the Devil is throwing a big ice skating party in Hades at this time. Has to be! Louisiana has repaved I-10 from the Texas border to Lake Charles! Could actually stay on the seat of the bike through that section. In the past, they had more "heave-hos" than the Alaskan Highway. And for much less understandable reasons. We probably (and unfortunately) have Katrina to thank for this too. If they're ever going to give the world an enema, the tube will go into the headquarters of the Louisiana D.O.T. Took I-10 to I-55 outside Hammond, La, and turned north. Stopped by Byram outside Jackson to see friends at the NCI DoubleCote plant. Was great seeing you guys...and on a day the rendering plant next door was being nice. Believe me, I was concerned about riding up there on my bike after being so sick the last few days. Took Hwy 25 from Jackson detouring off the beaten path on 16 to Edinburg. Wanted some country road, and to go through Carthage. Wasn't that the town in 'Heat of the Night?' Anyway, I associated it with it and wanted to get off 4-lane so I took it. Took Mars Hill Road back to Hwy 25. This was a nice little twisty country road. Good ride. My little detour made me run late into Starkville; it was just getting dark when I arrived. Then I had this terrible thought: What if this was the week all the freshmen were moving into Miss. State? There wouldn't be a room available anywhere and I'd be out riding through the night with the deer herds searching for a room. Lucked out. It wasn't. In fact, it was the first day of classes so the madness was over last weekend. Have I mentioned the heat? No? Well, it was hot. Let me calibrate that for you: I'm from Texas...and it was hot!! Hell of a time for a trip...but you takes 'em when you can takes 'em. Tomorrow, north into Tennessee. Then east.

Slight delay

Unfortunately, my trip will be a little delayed. One of the local Chinese restaurants decided to poison me last night. I am sick as a dog. Finally rolled out of bed around noon today, but couldn't pull a clutch lever if I had to. Right now I'm hoping to start out in the morning...but I'll need to improve quite a bit overnight for that to happen.

Plan

This ride is fundamentally a civil war history ride. The main goal is to visit Gettysburg traveling through the Shenandoah Valley sites of Jackson's Valley Campaign, returning through Antietam and the Wilderness on my way to Raleigh, and a grandkid "fix." Plans are to meet friends along the way for rides and eats and just generally relax and ride, two of my favorite past-times. Tentative plan is to leave Sunday, the 19th, travel through Jackson, MS on Monday, stopping by to visit friends in the area. Then, up through Tennessee to Chattanooga, visiting Lookout Mountain and the Chickamauga battlefield site in north Georgia. I'll then try to get through north Georgia without having to "squeal like a pig," then on into Asheville. One can't go through there without stopping at the Vanderbilt estate though we'll see. I've eaten lunch at the Metropolitan Club in NYC so I already have a fair idea of what decadent luxury without a budget is like. For the truly bored, previous rides blogs are: Alaska 2006 http://bigmotoride.blogspot.com/ Beartooth 2007 http://bigmotoride2.blogspot.com/